EMPTINESS

Exams are the crest of emptiness. Nothing happens, everything is dull and boring, negative and depressing, like the colours black and white. I can’t surf, go out, chill, or do anything fun as its all work, work, work. But as the dawn come of the weekend you know that yet another week has gone by, but its one week closer to the holiday. Then you start to think more positively things aren’t as dull and boring as seemed and if your lucky you can persuade some chap to take you to the beach and then get all exam time frustration out on some good waves and nice weather :) enjoy this poem:

Emptiness builds a home in this ocean
In this sea, this wave where hollows have bred
A deepening tube of nowhereness consumes
And eats away at every connecting thread
Until you get spat out to joy and delight

Here are a few empty black and white pics that are definitely not dull and boring.

TUNNELING

Barrel riding must be one of the best feelings known to man. And one of the best parts about it is that us as boogers are some of only a few people that will ever experience this joy. Once the lip kicks over you it is as if time has warped and slowed right down it is the greatest feeling in the world! Once you go in the tube you never want to come out. And when you do come out you try and remember that feeling and it is almost in describable. Well known surfer ‘Mark Occy’ has described it as “better than the best drug trip you can imagine”.
Here are some pics of the barrel, some more abstract than others.


Ryno about to get pitted





me duck diving a nice one

Berns racing to get the tube (with nice light)


Marius in a cracker, its a shame about all the droplets

!!!wow i want to surf!!!

I really am craving a surf! Here is a short clip of a fun vert at CAVES...

super bummed

So I was right now I should be half way to uncroweded waves for the weekend. But instead I’m at home updating this cause I there is this gay social thing at my school tonight which I thought I could bail and surf for the weekend. Turns out that it compulsory for SLC members to be there and the worst part is even though we have no choice in going, the school still makes us pay :( I’m super bummed so I’m adding a few more pics of pearly going off and where I could be. Enjoy and think of me when you’re enjoying the start to your weekend.

Marius Burger once again enjoying some super fun pearly.

this shot taken with some multi tasing, driving the barrel with the camera

Ryno Turketti on the knee

..pearly beach..

view from my house. flat day.

The weekend is finally here! Although exams start on Tuesday I’m off to my holiday house by Pearly Beach. I will try get some study done and hopefully score some good waves in between :) PB is situated near Gansbaai, Pearly Beach, or "Pearly", is a mellow wave with lefts and rights that can offer a 3 - 5 foot sandbar/reef break in the middle and the corners of the long stretch of beach, and a super sucking hollow shore break barrel over inches of water. It is a super fun wave that can give you some great ‘afternoon delight’, its certainly one of my favorite surf spot. Excuse the grainy pictures but here is a small glimpse of what you can get:

Bernard Hoogendijk enjoying time it a sick shorie barrel

Marius flying high over with a solid air forward boost

me enjoying the spoils

EXAM VIBES

Marius Burger starts todays post off with a caves cracker...

So I just got home from the flooded school. Learnt some extra maths, now have to study for geography test tomoro :( so the exam time depression is starting to set in. Exams are around the corner and now having my new board is not helping at all as all that I can think about is waves, although I have got my fair share of waves these past few weekends I am still craving a surf this makes it very, very hard to study. Fortunately the term is coming to an end now and holidays are drawing nearer only 3 more weeks and without a doubt il be getting waves soon. So at the moment im keeping it real, cold and wet, need a surf, need a girlfriend, need a car, need a million bux and most important a jolly good old fasion laze in front of the tv with hot chocolate watching my favorite boogie movie. untill these come true i leave you with so pics of good time's :)

peace

x

some extreem chilling off cape point

my new baby

below

super good caves. picture Christian Junker

zef so fressss

boredom..

going the zef so fresss way.