take a holiday

Blogging has been belated as I do not have internet at my holiday house. Over the 3weeks of holiday that has passed I have scored some good waves. I have surfed Aniston, Caves, all spots round the Pearly Beach area, Onrus and for the last few days Struisbaai. I have a few funny stories about this holiday, many coming from the Onrus Surfing/Bodyboarding Classic. Kyle Cabano can also tell you the stories about the night on the town, but we will save that for a later time. So I don’t really have any new photo’s for you seeing as all I have is footage of the holiday, so sorry. You can see some pics of the classic on KC’s blog @ http://manarise.blogspot.com/ enjoy these, none of me unfortunately. Hopefully getting a proper camera soon then pics will be coming. Struisbaai had some super fun waves scored a shorie that is like KIKI, crazy dumpers also got a solid 3 – 4ft left reef, a lot like kokkerot, I had a local stand up guru take me there, my board and suit got a few new injuries as we surfed it on super low. The Struisbaai night life was also a surprise to me! It has been a super chilled holiday thus far and I hope for it to continue in the same fashion. Merry Christmas to all and have a good new year. Cheers

Struisbaai KIKI

cave cracker

check this

http://manarise.blogspot.com/

ok im lazy so check kyles site to see what went down today

x

YO YO YO YO YO

Aweeeeeeeeeeeeee. Sorry this post has been so delayed. Finally on holiday, haven’t go any waves yet but I’m off to a place called Waanhuiskraans aka Aniston, I have not been there since I was an infant so it will be good to check out the surf. I have been told that there is warm water and about a wave that is fickle but that it becomes world class, so we will be hoping for the best. Il see if we take any photos. Until then over and out. Peace.

x

I ∆M M∆FOOS

I ∆M M∆FOOS. Local boy Matthew ‘M∆FOOS’ Lombard has decided to slip away from the main stream clothing industry and has started making some fresh new garments and textiles for you... here are two products from the new line as well as two other photos of what I ∆M M∆FOOS is all about!



beater/vest pic 1





Close up of vest







the I ∆M M∆FOOS cap







the next two are of what I ∆M M∆FOOS is all about.
















AIR REVO PHOTOG: Cobus Bosman

awe brahhhhhhhh

(nice bachwash)

KOEEL BAY really is a very COOL BAY... so Saturday. Wake up like 6.30am at school at 7.45am write bio paper 2 till 11.03am. quick pit stop at my cradle then off to caves. Sat in traffic for quite a while, the swell charts were only showing 5.5ft ocean swell so we were expecting it to be flat. Get there and its the best 1 – 2ft you have ever seen. With sick little sections and nice barrels. The water was like a bath and super clear. Like indo water. My pe board was like paper it was so warm. 24degrees, needed bordies. Its good to finally have some sunny skies BP pies off shores good banks and pumping waves. Yea so here are some pics of some waves. All photos taken by amateur photographer Pieter Ferreira. Using a Nikon d50 with 70 – 300mm lens. Enjoy these.

me enjoying the fun

harry with a goooood one

kyle with a vey good vert for small conditions

super nice one

...

What can I say... only 5 exams left, but have a bio exam on Saturday, but after going to caves to see if I can get some waves. This is a pic of the GAS CHAMBERS setup on a super fun day. Vicus Kruger pictured. (Photo Mike Dei – Cont)

EPIC

So got some fun waves on Sunday, good old caves produced some fun ones that packed quite a punch. Left pretty early as had to go study. Heard that after we left there was a pretty horrific accident involving a motorbike and a cliff… not pleasant as you can imagine. Credit goes to Kyle Cabano for landing a sick pop revo and a pretty sweet little vert. Also to the big guy Fred Voster for attempting to bust a roll on a big section, in doing that loosing his board and cushioning his bail with his chin on a rock. Haha some good times. Il put on some of the frame grabs later in the week. Here are 2 photo’s taken by Ian Thurtell of a place on the west coast called ‘Farmer Burgers’ super epic wave which Marius Burger and myself scored uncrowded on 4 – 6ft. it’s a crazy sick reef that provides an epic barrel. Here is a glimpse of that wave in October. Don’t under estimate it, it can deliver quite a mean blow, which I experienced on my second wave there, snapped my leash, caught in the 6ft freak set and not able to tread water as there is to much kelp. Other than that its all high quality fun. Enjoy peace and good luck for examinations…
x

BURN

There are many definitions for the word ‘BURN’ but there is one in particular that surfers and boogers alike really hate. I know this as I have done this on a few particular occasions. But it has also happened to me. Not a fin thing and it can really spoil a good session. Here is Matthew ‘MAFOOS’ Lombard giving us the perfect example (photo: Marcel Habets). The next is of a man with the name Vicus Kruger dropping in on me with Michael McCourt about to do the same to him.

Shawshanked

You know how Jack Black sings “math is not a wonderful thing” in the movie ‘School of Rock’, not the case, he must have been high or something when he sang that. Wrote paper 1 today and it was pretty much like prison. We got pretty ‘analized’ or ‘Shawshanked’ by it. ‘Shawshanked’ is a term used by our grade, it’s a prison movie which was our film study. Writing English paper 2 tomorrow (about the shawshank movie, etc...) looking forward to it because once its done I have finished English for grade 11… hopefully. Not fun. But what is good to know is that a whole week of exams are over for me. Going through to CAVES on Sunday which should be fun. Saturday is a heavy study day. but I have motivation to study cause I’ll be rewarded with waves the next day. Here is a photo of Mr. Kyle Cabano surfing good Rot in June 2009 (photo Christian Junker). The next is of me with a small forward of the lip at pearly. Good luck to all writing tomorrow…

SOFTCORE

Well exams are in full swing and we are not able to do anything rebellious and hardcore. It’s pretty unfair how exams drain the fun out of everything. For example I’m super amped for a surf this Saturday, Saturday will come I will hopefully score some good waves and be stoked, until I get home and realise I have to study and then all my joy and happiness drains away into a pool of gloom and depression. Now that exams are going we have no way to stick it to the man, the most hardcore thing I can do at the moment is scrunch a piece of paper in the exam. The teachers are so uptight they threaten you with disciplinary hearings and “0” mark for the exam. So I better be a good boy and be a law abider, well at least till the exams are over. So I leave you with these photo’s of a few good memories before the exams came to corrupt the minds of our youth. So take pleasure in them.

POETRY

POETRY. So I’m writing English paper one tomorrow, which is a bummer but once its done then its just on step closer to the holiday. Credit to Mr. Christian Junker and his new post, it made my day! After long and hard studying this cheered me up. Find this post at http://hushconcord.blogspot.com/ so Iv been studying poetry and its pretty rubbish the poems that we have to learn. So I was going through my stash of pics and I found a few that have some poetical meaning. The first pic is a little place we like to call CAVES, a super sick wedge that can offer solid peaks with good barrels and huge sections, booger heaven in the Boland. When this wave is good and you can surf it uncrowded then it is way better than the best poem you have ever read, this place will always have a place in your heart. The second shot is of a man called Ryno Turketi, if you take time out to watch this guy rip you will see his style pure poetry. On DK or prone he owns it all, I have had the privilege to of been able to surf with him for the past few December Holidays and it’s always good to see him carve it up. The last is of me at a wave called Langbaai Wedge in Hermanus. Lovely and fun closeout left beach/shore break. You become one with the sand, no metaphor, and refresh yourself with a good pounding. I have had a few fun sessions there. Enjoy these and I shall be off to study more of these poems, and try not to think of this form of poetry whilst studying.

EMPTINESS

Exams are the crest of emptiness. Nothing happens, everything is dull and boring, negative and depressing, like the colours black and white. I can’t surf, go out, chill, or do anything fun as its all work, work, work. But as the dawn come of the weekend you know that yet another week has gone by, but its one week closer to the holiday. Then you start to think more positively things aren’t as dull and boring as seemed and if your lucky you can persuade some chap to take you to the beach and then get all exam time frustration out on some good waves and nice weather :) enjoy this poem:

Emptiness builds a home in this ocean
In this sea, this wave where hollows have bred
A deepening tube of nowhereness consumes
And eats away at every connecting thread
Until you get spat out to joy and delight

Here are a few empty black and white pics that are definitely not dull and boring.

TUNNELING

Barrel riding must be one of the best feelings known to man. And one of the best parts about it is that us as boogers are some of only a few people that will ever experience this joy. Once the lip kicks over you it is as if time has warped and slowed right down it is the greatest feeling in the world! Once you go in the tube you never want to come out. And when you do come out you try and remember that feeling and it is almost in describable. Well known surfer ‘Mark Occy’ has described it as “better than the best drug trip you can imagine”.
Here are some pics of the barrel, some more abstract than others.


Ryno about to get pitted





me duck diving a nice one

Berns racing to get the tube (with nice light)


Marius in a cracker, its a shame about all the droplets

!!!wow i want to surf!!!

I really am craving a surf! Here is a short clip of a fun vert at CAVES...

super bummed

So I was right now I should be half way to uncroweded waves for the weekend. But instead I’m at home updating this cause I there is this gay social thing at my school tonight which I thought I could bail and surf for the weekend. Turns out that it compulsory for SLC members to be there and the worst part is even though we have no choice in going, the school still makes us pay :( I’m super bummed so I’m adding a few more pics of pearly going off and where I could be. Enjoy and think of me when you’re enjoying the start to your weekend.

Marius Burger once again enjoying some super fun pearly.

this shot taken with some multi tasing, driving the barrel with the camera

Ryno Turketti on the knee

..pearly beach..

view from my house. flat day.

The weekend is finally here! Although exams start on Tuesday I’m off to my holiday house by Pearly Beach. I will try get some study done and hopefully score some good waves in between :) PB is situated near Gansbaai, Pearly Beach, or "Pearly", is a mellow wave with lefts and rights that can offer a 3 - 5 foot sandbar/reef break in the middle and the corners of the long stretch of beach, and a super sucking hollow shore break barrel over inches of water. It is a super fun wave that can give you some great ‘afternoon delight’, its certainly one of my favorite surf spot. Excuse the grainy pictures but here is a small glimpse of what you can get:

Bernard Hoogendijk enjoying time it a sick shorie barrel

Marius flying high over with a solid air forward boost

me enjoying the spoils

EXAM VIBES

Marius Burger starts todays post off with a caves cracker...

So I just got home from the flooded school. Learnt some extra maths, now have to study for geography test tomoro :( so the exam time depression is starting to set in. Exams are around the corner and now having my new board is not helping at all as all that I can think about is waves, although I have got my fair share of waves these past few weekends I am still craving a surf this makes it very, very hard to study. Fortunately the term is coming to an end now and holidays are drawing nearer only 3 more weeks and without a doubt il be getting waves soon. So at the moment im keeping it real, cold and wet, need a surf, need a girlfriend, need a car, need a million bux and most important a jolly good old fasion laze in front of the tv with hot chocolate watching my favorite boogie movie. untill these come true i leave you with so pics of good time's :)

peace

x

some extreem chilling off cape point

my new baby

below

super good caves. picture Christian Junker

zef so fressss

boredom..

going the zef so fresss way.